Today in Food

Umano

SUMMARY

  • Specializes in aged beef and cuts not typical of the region (thickly butchered t-bones, ribs, entrecote).
  • Serves beautifully prepared offal delicacies like brain and sweetbreads.
  •  There are vegetarian options and traditional dishes in season.
  • Menu encourages starting with shared plates of Cantabrian anchovies or salumi or various hams before heading into appetizers.
  • Staffed with a small, but tremendous team of enjoyable, knowledgeable restaurateurs.
  • Located in the wonderful, enoteca-packed town of Neive.
  • After lunch, walk up the hill and stop by Benedetta‘s exceptional shop below her boutique 4-room hotel.

Dear reader: today in food, we went back to Umano. Really excellent food in the wonderful town of Neive boasting three enotecas/wine bars per resident. Okay, I made that up, but it certainly feels that way.

On this day, we started with a plate of Cantabrian anchovies served with homemade toasted bread and mountain butter (insert drool emoji). Of course, there are anchovies from the oceans off of our own coast, but Italians really make an effort to source the best ingredients. So, if those are caught and preserved in the Bay of Biscay, it’s a compliment not to be ignored. Last thought: if you are a fan of these Spanish anchovies, the eight fat fillets we ate today were the best I’d ever had.

I have a working theory that before you look too far astray for dishes that riff on Piemontese food, you have to road-test one or two of the classics. For me, this is usually vitello tonnato and plin. Today, I had the former: spot on delicious, pretty to look at, the veal was a lovely pink.