What To Eat

This is not an exhaustive list of typical Piemontese dishes (a few come and go depending on the season), but it’s a solid introduction of what you can expect no matter where you dine. To see how local restaurants riff on the classics and feature seasonal dishes, continue to our suggestions on “Where to Eat“.

Vitello Tonnato

Cold, thinly sliced veal served with a tuna sauce
Is it possible that the Romans invented surf-n-turf? I can't say, but it is delicious (albeit counterintuitive). The dish acknowledges the long history of trade between meat-centric Piemontese and their southern, coastal fishing neighbors in Liguria. The sauce is mayo-based puréed with tuna, anchovies and capers. And it's freaking delicious on a hot day.

Carne Cruda di Fassone Battuta al Coltello

Raw veal that is hand cut with a knife
Please do not call this tartare. There is no egg, no capers, no mustard — nothing interfering with the taste of this unique breed of Piedmontese cattle. Fassone has a higher lean-to-fat ratio and less marbling with less connective tissue; it's incredibly tender and sweet. Some restaurants shave parmesan, while many others think it's gilding the lily.

Peperoni, Giardiniera e Insalata di Pollo

Bell pepper stuffed with tuna; pickled veg; and balsamic-dressed shredded chicken
This is a typical sampling (degustazione) of antipasti (in addition to those already mentioned). The combination of sweet peppers and salty tuna are a perennial favorite. Giardiniera (pickled veg) helps balance the richness of other dishes, but is also great on its own.

Tajarin

Hand-cut pasta made with up to 40 egg yolks per kilo of flour
Generally speaking, tajarin (pronounced tie-yah-REEN) is dressed with a veal ragu, but in season, you might be treated to porcini (pictured here in late summer), vegetables (spring), or a mountain of white truffles (autumn). The width of the pasta is smaller than tagliatelle given its decadent richness (up to 40 egg yolks per kilo flour).

Plin

Piemontese agnolotti
Plin (rhymes with clean) is to "pinch" in Piemontese dialect. Each agnolotti is stuffed with 2-3 types of roasted meat (veal, pork, and sometimes rabbit). The condiment is either sage and butter or the roasting juices or plain in a napkin and eaten with your fingers. When the kitchen thinks the pasta can stand on its own in a napkin, try it. Che figata!

Gnocchi al Castelmagno

Potato dumplings dressed with local cheese and butter
Castelmagno (DOP) is made in the municipal of the same name and in very limited quantities. The cows that provide the milk graze in alpine pastures. The cheese is slightly salty, sometimes nutty or mushroom flavored, or a bit tart/sour -- hard to describe but delicious in this gnocchi dish or risotto. Aged Castelmagno is also buono with honey.

Brasato

Braised Meat
Wine is incredibly important to those who live in the Piedmont (and dare I say: everywhere), and there's lots of it. So, it makes sense that wine would be used in their cooking to break down more complex cuts of meat -- beef cheeks, short ribs, and the like. Needless to say, these dishes are hearty and it takes a pro to polish them off after antipasti and pasta. But, I know you can do it!

Al Forno

Roasted Meat
Al forno is the Italian equivalent of roasting something in the oven. This is typical preparation for smaller animals: goat (capra), rabbit (coniglio), duck (anatra), and finishing off pork belly (pancia di maiale). This is my preferred preparation, especially in spring and summer when the weather is warmer and I myself am already braising in my own sweat.

Pesce

Yes, fish.
For a region literally "at the foot of the mountain" (Piemonte), fish doesn't seem an intuitive choice. However, in the Langhe, we are 90 minutes from the Ligurian Sea. Fish is either roasted (as depicted) or often raw (crudo). Do not be alarmed; you will never be served anything that is not absolutely fresh. (P.S. This is true for all food served in this region.)

Gelato


Needs no translation
It's way too obvious to mention gelati as a cuisine staple, but it is worth talking about a few favorite local flavors: nocciole (hazelnut) and fondente (strongly flavored, less sweet dark chocolate). Don't look for vanilla ice cream, it doesn't exist; try fior di latte -- it's literally the cream (well, actually just milk) of the crop. Also, try anything with fruit.

Nocciole

Hazelnuts
There is a prized varietal of hazelnut grown here (with its IGP distinction) called Tonda Gentile. I hear it's more "hazelnutty" than its cousins (don't ask me, I'm allergic). So when you see the famed Torta di Nocciole, eat it. Pictured on the flip side: le pesche ripiene (baked peaches stuffed with a mixture of chocolate crushed amaretti cookies). Local favorit.

Meringa

Meringue
When your culinary tradition includes a 40-yolk pasta, you have an abundance of egg whites. At Osteria Veglio, the chefs make painstaking efforts to keep the meringue soft by drawing moisture from the whipped cream; in turn, the cream is sweetened with the meringue's sugar. It is the perfect meringue-y marriage (just like theirs)!